PMU touch-up — when is the right time for a refresh?
Permanent make-up is long-lasting — but not forever. Whether eyebrows, eyeliner or lips, the colour gradually fades after one to three years. This is not a flaw but a natural process that depends on skin type, aftercare and lifestyle. The key question is: when is the right moment for a touch-up? Olga Keller of Kosmetikinstitut Expert in Berlin explains what to look out for — and why a well-timed refresh can actually improve the result.
Why permanent make-up fades
Permanent make-up is placed in the uppermost skin layer — not as deeply as a traditional tattoo. The body naturally breaks down the pigments over time. How quickly this happens depends on several factors: skin type, metabolic activity, sun exposure and daily skincare. Oily skin tends to break down pigments faster than dry skin. Intense UV radiation accelerates the process, as do chemical peels, retinol or acid-based products applied to the treated area.
Olga Keller uses exclusively certified German-made pigments that are free of heavy metals and iron oxide. These pigments fade evenly without unwanted colour shifts — an important quality difference compared to cheaper pigments that can turn blue, red or orange over time.
Typical signs that a touch-up is due
Not every slight change means you need a refresh immediately. There are, however, clear signs that point to the right moment. The colour is noticeably paler than after the last appointment and the contours appear less defined. With eyebrows, individual hair strokes become indistinct; with lips, the colour loses saturation; with eyeliner, the line grows thinner or patchy.
Olga Keller recommends not delaying the touch-up for too long. When sufficient residual pigment remains, the result can be optimised with less effort. If you wait until the colour has almost completely disappeared, it amounts to a full rebuild — with correspondingly greater effort and cost.
Timeframes by treatment area
Each treatment area follows its own rhythm. Permanent eyebrow make-up — whether microblading, microshading or powder brows — typically lasts one to two years. With microblading and its fine hair strokes in particular, a touch-up may be worthwhile after just twelve to eighteen months as the individual strokes become thinner.
Permanent lip make-up often lasts a little longer — up to three years is possible. The lip area, however, is subject to heavy mechanical stress: eating, drinking, speaking and lip care constantly act on the pigments. Permanent eyeliner is frequently the most durable, as the eye area is less exposed to external influences. Even here, however, a review is recommended after two to three years at the latest.
What happens during a touch-up
A touch-up is not a complete restart. Olga Keller first analyses the current state: how much residual pigment remains? Has the colour shifted? Does the shape still suit? Based on this analysis the colour blend is adjusted — often slightly different from the first appointment in order to compensate for any colour drift.
The procedure itself is generally shorter than the initial treatment, since the base shape already exists. For eyebrows, the microblading touch-up takes around 60 to 90 minutes; for lips, the lip touch-up is similar. The healing process also runs milder and faster than the first time.
Touch-up versus new treatment — the difference
As long as residual pigment remains in the skin, we are talking about a touch-up. This is less involved and typically less expensive than an initial treatment. If the colour has faded entirely, or you wish for a fundamentally different shape or shade, it becomes a new treatment. In both cases Olga Keller begins with a thorough consultation — because over time your facial shape, skin condition and aesthetic preferences also evolve. A touch-up is therefore always an opportunity to gently adapt the result to your current stage of life.
Your touch-up with Olga Keller in Berlin
The right refresh at the right time keeps your permanent make-up looking beautiful for the long term. Olga Keller, state-certified cosmetologist and permanent make-up pioneer in Berlin, accompanies you not only at the initial treatment but at every subsequent appointment — with nearly 13 years of experience, thousands of successful procedures and a documented colour system that draws on your individual shade at every touch-up. Clients travel from across Germany and abroad to see her; hundreds of five-star reviews confirm her exceptional work. Book your appointment and explore all permanent make-up treatments at Kosmetikinstitut Expert.
